Attempt No. 1: April Ascent of an obscure line in the Wasatch.
|the garbage chute photo: jason dorais|
This is me bailing off the route on a V-thread and a buried avy shovel:
|photo: jason dorais again|
Little Brother Aaron and the Dorais brothers and I hooked up last week to ski off a northwestish line of the SL Twins. This is how I will forever remember that event:
|avante gard portrayal of a Broads Fork tour|
It involved taking a creative way up Broads Fork, a downclimb, wicked April weather, bailing, and ending up eating an omelette at Paradise Bakery when we were supposed to be linking some sweet lines.
Attempt No. 3: April Ski Ascent of an alpine climb in the Wasatch.
After our failed attempt at the linkup above, I went on a solo mission to climb and ski this mountain:
The weather forecast was for cold temperatures, and I got an alpine start, hoping that things would be locked into place. It wasn't as cold as I hoped, and while skinning the apron was a bit suspect snow conditions-wise, when I got to the climbing part, the snow and ice were nice and hard, and travel was relatively easy. About 2/3s up, I got a bit off route, and the snow and ice started getting thinner and thinner and the rock slab I was on started getting smoother and smoother. Uh oh.
When I crossed the line of "too risky," I pulled out a pin, drove it in and self-belayed off that and a cordelette (as if that were any better). But as I kept edging that line, I broke down, built an anchor, pulled out my rope, and climbed, placing a few pieces on self-belay. I climbed to a suitable rap anchor where I promptly and happily bailed. Just as I did, the intense April sun touched the top of the mountain and some sluffage plopped down right next to me. Definitely, time to go. Skiing the apron was nice though.
|This is me getting scared.|