Attempt No. 1: April Ascent of an obscure line in the Wasatch.
the garbage chute photo: jason dorais |
This is me bailing off the route on a V-thread and a buried avy shovel:
photo: jason dorais again |
Little Brother Aaron and the Dorais brothers and I hooked up last week to ski off a northwestish line of the SL Twins. This is how I will forever remember that event:
avante gard portrayal of a Broads Fork tour |
It involved taking a creative way up Broads Fork, a downclimb, wicked April weather, bailing, and ending up eating an omelette at Paradise Bakery when we were supposed to be linking some sweet lines.
Attempt No. 3: April Ski Ascent of an alpine climb in the Wasatch.
After our failed attempt at the linkup above, I went on a solo mission to climb and ski this mountain:
The weather forecast was for cold temperatures, and I got an alpine start, hoping that things would be locked into place. It wasn't as cold as I hoped, and while skinning the apron was a bit suspect snow conditions-wise, when I got to the climbing part, the snow and ice were nice and hard, and travel was relatively easy. About 2/3s up, I got a bit off route, and the snow and ice started getting thinner and thinner and the rock slab I was on started getting smoother and smoother. Uh oh.
When I crossed the line of "too risky," I pulled out a pin, drove it in and self-belayed off that and a cordelette (as if that were any better). But as I kept edging that line, I broke down, built an anchor, pulled out my rope, and climbed, placing a few pieces on self-belay. I climbed to a suitable rap anchor where I promptly and happily bailed. Just as I did, the intense April sun touched the top of the mountain and some sluffage plopped down right next to me. Definitely, time to go. Skiing the apron was nice though.
This is me getting scared. |
4 comments:
Remember it is the dude still alive that is having the most fun :)
Great reads...awesome trips. And I'm thinking your little brother should get out more...with some ONE ELSE :)
Funny I was just looking at that mountain thinking the exact same thing... Is their a 'returned gear award?'
Ha. I retrieved everything as I rapped back down. Even the pin. But there is a rap ring and some webbing tied to a tree. It's yours if you go get it.
Ha, this reminds me of my three failed attempts at a summit ski descent of Long's peak, Colorado...all of which were fun. There is another chute by the name of Garbage in the Maroon Bells too.
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